Finding the Right Spot for Curb-Cut Rain Gardens - Look Below

Rain gardens capture and clean stormwater runoff before it reaches local waterbodies. Finding the right place to put one, especially a curb-cut rain garden that collects water from the street, takes more than just finding an open spot in the yard.

Several factors influence whether a rain garden will work effectively: the size of the area draining to it, the property's use, available space, landscaping features, and yard slope. While these things are easy to see, some of the most important considerations are hidden underground. Utilities such as water, sewer, gas, and electric lines must have adequate soil cover, and rain gardens can't interfere with these requirements. Soil is another key factor. Sandy soil allows water to soak in easily, while silt and clay soils may require special construction or make a site unsuitable for infiltration. 

Photo: Underground utility markings – yellow lines are gas, and blue lines are water.
Photo: Soil boring column where different color soils indicate the diversity of soils present at the site.

To explore where rain gardens can be most effective, the City of Fridley is partnering with ACD as part of a 2026 street reconstruction project. Properties in the project area with ideal conditions were identified, and those with interested landowners are now being evaluated for feasibility. Pairing rain garden installation with street reconstruction is a cost-effective way to manage stormwater in neighborhoods that currently lack treatment. With thoughtful planning above and below ground, curb-cut rain gardens can provide long-lasting benefits for both water quality and neighborhood beautification.

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Sheet Mulching

Sheet mulching – saves time, builds soil, and smothers existing weeds or lawn without using herbicide.

Sheet mulching is an excellent way to convert lawn to garden beds without using herbicides or excessive labor. Meanwhile it can build soil and be accomplished with readily available materials.

Begin by mowing grass or other vegetation in the area you want to convert into a new garden bed. It can be as simple as layers of newspaper or cardboard topped by four inches of mulch to smother grass and weeds underneath. If this is started in the spring, the underlying plants will have died from lack of light and the garden bed will be ready for planting in the fall.A more diverse layering of material will produce a compost that will break down and build your soil. For this, layer:

  1. Soil amendments if soil test results recommend amendments (lime, greensand, etc.). Recommended if you are creating a vegetable garden.
  2. Thin layer of compost.
  3. Wet newspaper or cardboard, 1/4 – 1/2 inch thick.
  4. Thin layer of nitrogen source such as manure.
  5. Layer of straw or leaves (carbon source).
  6. Continue to alternate layers of nitrogen and carbon sources.
  7. End with a top layer of mulch.

This type of bed is finished when these layers have decomposed. It may take the entire growing season to decompose sufficiently. If you start in the spring, the bed will likely be ready to plant in the fall.

See the Xerces Society Organic Site Preparation for Wildflower Establishment publication for more organic site preparation methods and directions:

https://xerces.org/publications/guidelines/organic-site-preparation-for-wildflower-establishment

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